Greetings from Aplahoue, Benin!

It's hard to believe another week has passed. Two weeks! It seems like so much longer than that! This last week has been really good, much better and easier than the first, but still, it seems like a very long time since I left Chicago and all that was familiar. I really miss everyone dearly and even more so now that I'm writing this e-mail and thinking about each one of you.

So, what have I been up to this last week?... you're wondering. Let me try to summarize it, without boring you with too many details.
I survived my four days alone in Benin. It was kind of nice to have space and privacy and do as I pleased, but I sure was happy when they came back. I spent a lot of time studying French, reading, thinking, praying, and playing the guitar (which I don't feel like I can really do when David- the husband of the family I'm living with- is home, because he's super sensitive to noise...and he almost never leaves the house since he's working on a commentary). Jules, the neighbor boy who comes to water the garden and who is the brother of Koku, my French tutor, stopped by a lot to talk with me often. I think he stopped by to make sure I was ok by myself. I loved the company and it really helped my French as well. While I was by myself, I ate only the food that I had bought at the market (rice, beans, vegetables, and fruit), and I think I could survive on it... but it was kind of nice when the Broyles came back and I got a variety of food again. (They bring over a huge container every term with food from America, plus they stock up on stuff when they are in the capital city. They basically eat American food: chicken and mashed potatoes, apple pie, chocolate chip cookies... and other stuff of course, too, but those were the things that I least expected to eat while in Africa :)). This week I also ate my first African food from the boys next door, la Pat and Sauce. Pat is basically ground corn flour (farina) made into a very thick porridge, of which you break pieces off and dip them in the sauce, which is made up off red palm oil, chilies, sometimes dried fish, and other stuff I can't remember right now. This is a daily staple here. I liked it a lot, but hopefully won't be eating every day. It was definitely spicy... my sinuses were clear for awhile after I ate it!

How's my French coming? Well, thanks for asking. On the one hand, it's coming along nicely. I feel like I've learned so much French these last two weeks (less, really) that my head is going to explode. I have official French lessons four times a week for 2 hours with Koku. Kojo, the guy who lives with the Broyles and is like a son to them, gives me informal French lessons all day long by speaking French with me (and repeating himself over and over until I finally get it. Really, I've learned most of my French from him). Also, I spend a lot of time on my own reviewing what I've learned with Koku and Kojo, plus I have a French book that I've used some as well. I can carry on simple conversations and understand quite a bit of what's going on, but only when people are intentionally speaking slowly and are willing to repeat themselves multiple times until I get it (which at this point are Kojo, Koku, and Jules. ) However, despite all that I've learned and the fact that I'm often amazed at how much I've learned in such a short time, I get discouraged because I wonder how long it's going to be until I can really communicate here and get by on my own and actually do something with my time (besides study French). Plus, the last couple days I feel like French has taken a back seat to other things like multiple unproductive trips to a city about an hour away, playing games, talking (in English), and spending time with Jenny (the daughter of the family I'm staying with. She is a precocious six year old who is going on 10. She absolutely loves to hang out with me, and she has made my time here much more enjoyable.) I guess I should remind myself that it's the weekend and I can take a break from "my work", which currently is learning French. Monday I plan on going to the center of town, just about a 5 minute walk, and striking up some conversations with various people. In my French lessons we've been working on questions to ask both students and adults, so I should be somewhat prepared, but this is definitely out of my comfort zone. My one moment of glory with French so far (besides talking with the three people I mentioned earlier) was when I was in Lokossa (the major city near here, about an hour away) and I asked where I could find an ATM machine, and I was understood and I understood the response. Now, before you think that's not a big deal, let me explain. There is one ATM in Cotonou, Benin's main city. At that bank, they also told me that there was one other in Lokossa (and supposedly that is all in the entire country). Because ATMs aren't really used here, no one here knows what they are or what they are called. So, when I asked at the first bank I had to describe and explain what this machine that I was looking for actually does. They didn't have one and said there wasn't one in Lokossa (and couldn't even change dollars for me). We ran into a policeman and I asked him about the ATM. After explaining what it was, he knew what it was, but said that only Cotonou had such a thing. So, somehow I'm going to have to get to Cotonou to get money. The problem is that it's 3 hours away and you can only get $150 at a time (a day, I think). Anyway, I'll work something out.

Besides French, I've been learning a lot about Benin (and Togo... I won't go into much detail about that now, but check the news for what's going on in Togo if you aren't already aware. Togo is very close to here (20 km) and the Broyles actually have their main home there (but are trying to get permission to work solely in Benin- not related to the current situation). The Broyles were actually in Togo the day the president died. I found out a couple days later from Jules who explained it to me (in French!). Kojo, Koku, and Jules are all from Togo, so this situation is definitely very close to "home" (my new "home"). Things are very tense in Togo at the moment. And if for some reason this isn't hitting news in the States, let me know and I can tell you what's going on. Hopefully, however, a constitutional coup d'etat made at least a blurb in the news. Who knows...

I'll add some blogs in the future about the things I'm learning about customs and the culture here. I often use my French lessons not only to learn French but find out things about the culture...like last week when there was very loud music playing right across the road ALL night long. It turns out it was a ceremony for the dead, a week after someone dies. I had Koku tell me all about it in French, stopping at almost every other word for translations. Sadly, almost every night you hear music, sometimes far, but often fairly close. The music is played for 24 hours when someone dies, then again a week later for 24 hrs., and then there is usually a third time, but the family sets the date for that ceremony, sometimes days, often weeks or months, and sometimes even years, later. The music serves as a call to the people in the village and other villages, to announce the death or the ceremony. I've also learned a lot about the educational system and some about the agriculture and commerce.

I've had a lot of fun this week, which has helped me not feel like crying all the time, like last week. Like I mentioned last week, Kojo has been a gift from God. Not only has helped me so much with French and taken me to the market and taught me how to bargain and buy, he's become a friend to talk with and hang out with. Every Saturday students gather at "the stadium" (a soccer field with a track around it and a dirt basketball court) for sports, but it's not part of school and other people can play. So, this Saturday Kojo and I went for a run (and boy, am I out of shape. Granted I was running in long pants and it's fairly humid and warm, even when the sun is just starting to rise, and Kojo runs at a much faster speed than I'm used to... but still, I was way too tired for the short distance we actually ran) and then went to play basketball. First, there were various practice drills. If, after a certain amount of shots, you didn't make it, you didn't make at least one, you had to do 5 push-ups. I had no problem with the lay-ups (although, let me tell you, it's hard to dribble on a floor with dirt and rocks), but when it came to free-throws, they just weren't dropping (neither were they for a lot of others). I was getting a little worried, because I really can't do 5 push-ups... maybe 2 if I'm lucky (and I don't think they'll accept my girl push-ups :)). I was afraid I was going to be thoroughly embarrassed. Fortunately, on my last chance I made it. You have no idea how relieved I was! Kojo told me later that everyone was really hoping I'd miss and have to do push-ups... to see what the Yovo lady could do! Let's just say that today I came back and started working on push-ups because next week I might need them. This morning we went out for a run again and then practiced some basketball drills (and yes, I had to do a few push-ups. They didn't go so well and my entire body was covered with red dirt :)). We then played 3-on-3 with some guys. Afterwards I was completely exhausted, because I haven't really exercised for awhile. Hopefully I'll get in shape quickly. think Kojo and I are going to keep running in the mornings and maybe shoot some hoops, too. (Although I don't know if "the stadium" is free for our use during the week since it's part of the school). I didn't expect to get to play basketball here in Africa... I think all of you know how happy this makes me!!

The thing that is always on my mind, and maybe is question on your mind as well, is what I'm actually going to be doing here. All I knew before I came is that I had someone to pick me up at the airport and stay with initially and that I would be able to work at least a few days a week at a clinic that has some sort of AIDS program. Well, I don't really have much new to report in this area, but here it is: I went to visit the clinic called Centre de Sante de Gohomey (Gohomey center of health, i.e. clinic) just a few days after I arrived. I was so excited to see what the clinic was like! It's divided into 2 parts, the clinic on one side and the orphanage and other social services on the other. I'll wait to describe it to you in detail until I'm actually there and know more. I met Judith, the assistant director, who is from Germany. Although my German didn't quite flow the way I would like, we connected really well. She offered that I just come live at the clinic. (I feel like I might have written all this already in my last e-mail, but as I have no way to check, here it is... maybe again. Now that I think about it, it may have been in the part that I lost). However, the director, who I have still not met, even though I have been there twice, has made it clear to Thora that it is only to be for 2 or 3 days a week. Hopefully this week I'll actually be able to speak with the director. Thinking about it these last two weeks, I don't think I want to be there full-time. There are a lot of other things that I could probably get plugged in, but the question is what (and one of the problems for awhile is the language). There are possibilities of doing things with literacy (which as a teacher would really interest me), literacy in Adja. Most Adja people cannot read their own language. But since the a lot of the New Testament is in Adja, there is a desire for some to learn. Yes, I know I don't speak any Adja, but I've been told that I could learn to read Adja fairly easily and then could teach others how to read it, even if I don't understand the words. Of course, I do probably need a bit more French. Also, I am interested in doing something with nutrition and there are some possibilities for that in some villages or clinics. I have also been asked to teach English at the Bible Institute in Benin, but since that is over an hour away by car, I don't know if that will work. What interests me the most, however, is learning more about AIDS and working with people with AIDS. The clinic at Gohomey has a program involved with helping people with AIDS. I've also "randomly" (probably divine appointments) run into 3 other people in the last week with people who are working with NGOs involved in some way with AIDS. Hopefully I can tag along and see what they do sometime soon and maybe get involved with them. Thora told me that 60% of the people here are employed by NGOs!! Many of the rest work for the state. (I'm assumming it's not 60% of the population but 60% of the people who are employed outside of their own farming.)


Well, I have so much else to tell you about the way of life here and things I've seen and done, but I know all of you have busy lives, so I'm going to stop for this week. Besides it's getting late. It sure was nice to write this on the keyboard I'm used to (the one at the cyber cafe is the French version) and not worry about the connection going off every few minutes. Please keep praying for me, especially for me to learn French quickly (and soon some Adja as well) and for God to direct me to what he wants me to do here. It is a constant confusion in my mind, because I don't really feel qualified to be of much help. I feel that the Beninese are much more effective in every area than I would be, so I'm not sure how I fit in. I'm trying to be patient and trust God, because I know that He brought me here for a reason (and He's brought me to far to leave me... for those of you who know that song). I thank God so much for giving me this time of transition with the Broyles and Kojo. I've been so fortunate to have an almost immediate friend to hang out with. (However, I want to make sure I don't depend too much on this security blanket). I'm thankful to have met the people God has put in my path this week. I'm also so thankful that I've been very healthy so far and that my emotional health has been much better this week. Thank you, my dear friends and family, for praying for me. I think of you all often and will try to pray for you more often :).


Love you all, Chrissy/Chrischona (it's hard to know what name to use when I'm writing to more than one person :))


First e-mail/post from Africa
FEB. 6, 2006

Wow, I don't even know where to start....
I'm sitting here at Le Cyber Cafe (the internet cafe)
in Azove. To get here I walked 3 or 4 kilometers,
first on a dirt road (the dirt here is an amazing red
color) and then on the side of le gudron (the paved
road). As walked along the road, I received lots of
stares, which I often returned with a "Bonjour" (Good
day). Some of the kids sang a song when I walked by.
I'll have to find out what they're singing, but I
think it is "whitey, give me money". Various zemidjan
(the motorbike taxis) waved to see if I wanted a ride,
but I waved them on. At the internet Cafe I bought a
password, with a certain amount of time on it and then
proceeded to spend the next hour trying to get
connected. THe one phone line to which all ten
computers are connected would go on and off, and I
would have to start all over again login on to yahoo.
By the time I got on it would go off again. But it
seems to finally be working. Now I'm trying to get
used to the foreign keyboard, so expect a lot of
typos. The internet cafe is open every evening and all
day Sunday, but since I can't go out in the evening
(Kojo, who I will tell you about in a bit, says that
as a Yovo (a whitey) I will be kidnapped if I do. Rest
assured, the day time is very safe). So, I will try to
come to the internet cafe every Sunday. No doubt,
Sunday will probably be my favorite day of the week!

It's hard to believe I left a week ago... it seems
like it's already been forever. I'm trying very hard
not cry right now, because there are other people
around, but it's not working terribly well. I've had
some really good moments this week, but it's also been
exremely difficult, especially thinking about how long
I was (and still am, I think) planning on staying and
not being able to understand the language. The first
few days it was a fight to keep the tears in check
(but I did) and I had no where to go by myself. I I
wondered how I would survive without being able to
speak the language, esp. when I left the Broyles for
my own place. I wondered about how I would get
involved and what I should get involved with. I
wondered what in the world I was thinking coming here
and how I could possibly go home ASAP. The last few
days have been better....

AHHHHHHHH. THe power just went off for a second and I
lost everything I wrote the last hour. I have been
trying to remember to save as a draft ocassionally,
but since even that takes awhile I got lazy and
stopped doing it very often. I have been Ctrl-C in
case the connection went, but that didn't help when
the power went. I lost a lot and now I dont't have
much time left. One hour costs 1 dollar and I've been
on for 2, although over 30 minutes where wasted when
there were all these problems with the connection.
Anyway, I won't be able to tell you everything I want,
but here is some of it again.

The last few days have been better. I have decided to
spend the first month or two only learning the
language, mainly French but also a little Aja. French
will be much easier since I already have a base and I
am familiar with the sounds and some words are
similar. Aja is tonal and there isn't much in writing.
I have French tutor, a high school boy who lives next
door. We'll work 4 or 5 days a week for an hour or
two. My first lesson I learned how to shop at the
market (market day was yesterday, more on that in a
bit), and yesterday I learned how to talk to the
zemidjan man, the motorbike taxi, and what to say at
the internet cafe. I decided to walk here to save
money and to get some exercise, but I will take the
zemidjan home, esp. since it is the middle of the day
and the sun is hot.

I feel like I have learned A LOT of French this week,
and most of that is due not to my tutor Koku, but to
Kojo, the Broyles African son. He has been a gift from
God for me. He speaks English almost fluently, but the
last few days he started speaking French with me to
help me learn. He speaks nice and slowly and is
willing to repeat things over and over. Yesterday he
took me to the market so I could try out the things he
and also Koku had taught me. (By the way, he usually
listens during the lesson and helps out when the other
guy or I don't understand). At the market I bought
beans, onions, tomatoes, lettuce, carrots, garlic,
oranges, and a pineapple. Not everyone spoke French,
so Kojo had to take over sometimes. I also had my
first zemidjan ride. He uses one man who drives slower
and more safely.

THe Broyles left for Togo yesterday (Saturday) and
will
bbe gone until Tuesday. Although it is nice to have a
llittle space, it is also very strange to be in such a
ffoeign place without knowing anyone, except the boy
next door, and not really being able to communicate,
although I did talk a bit with the night guard about
what all the loud music was ALL night long. THere was
q ceremony of death (a funeral) across the road.

Well, I have to go. Please continue to pray for me
that I would get adjusted to being here, that I would
learn the language quickly, that God would lead us to
a place to live (there may be the possibility of a
house just across the road. I would like to live there
at for a month or two while I'm learning how to live
here. Then I would like to be closer to the clinic).
Pray also for me to know what actually to be doing
here. The director of the clinic was not there when we
went. I also had a long talk with one of the pastors,
whose English ws excellent, about his vision
concerning the church and AIDS. ALso, the Bible school
would like me to teach some English, but that is an
hour away by car, so I'm not sure that will work.

There is so much else to write but it will need to
wait. I am going to try to work something out with
Thora and her e-mail, because it is hard to do it here
with the connection problems, plus the time I spend
online. I might come here to check your e-mails and
respond to individuals, but try to write group ones
from Thora's. SHe writes them on her computer and then
goes to where there is a phoneline connection. (Luke,
I will be taking you up o offer to facilitate the BLog
and will let you know when I know any details).

I love you all very much and miss you very much!!
Chrischona/Chrissy